As the Penultimate Woodshop is a Blogger blog, its easy for me to integrate with Google+ using Google+ comments. Google+ comments mean that comments to...
Andys Intro To Sculpted Furniture
I think that sculpted furniture is a pinnacle of design and comfort. Andy Chidwick is a master of the form.br Three of Andys wonderfully sculpted chairs.div...
N?1 Spiers Dovetail Plane
This post has written by Vittorio Thinking of metal planes I often think to Stewart Spiers 
I used Fe 430 steel bars (5x70mm) for sole and sides, joined the two sides in three points by countersunk screws (in this choice the screws do not interfere while the pieces are clamped in the vice) and cut the tails.
The mouth is opened by boring it with a 3 mm tip, hack saw blade and a 2,5 mm file. I obtained two angles, one of 47° (seat angle) and the other of 45° (wear angle). 
The blade support (47°) is fixed by 3 iron rivets (dia. 6,5 mm)
The sole is prepared for jointing and the classical Spiers profile is cut. Beautiful but a little bit laborious. 
Sanding by 80 grit abrasive paper (sides are screwed to a piece of wood) 
During the tail peening, if joints are precise, 2 mm of extra length are enough, otherwise 3 mm are necessary for closing all gaps.
Bun and handle are ash wood, stained and treated with shellac.
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I like much the side profile and handles, so I searched for a model; I found it on the Handplane Central website, so I adapted the draw for a 2 inches blade and tried to building the plane.
I used Fe 430 steel bars (5x70mm) for sole and sides, joined the two sides in three points by countersunk screws (in this choice the screws do not interfere while the pieces are clamped in the vice) and cut the tails. Sanding by 80 grit abrasive paper (sides are screwed to a piece of wood) During the tail peening, if joints are precise, 2 mm of extra length are enough, otherwise 3 mm are necessary for closing all gaps. Lever cap: I could not imitate the original because had not a model; however the job was acceptable for me.
The chipbreaker showed some rusted areas, so I sanded it (80 and 120 grit) and created the profile for a good adherence to blade at cutting edge.
The Sorby blade is 2" wide parallel iron (from e-bay); 25° bevel, 30° microbevel.
The cap iron screw (M8, 16 mm head) was built by welding together a rectangular nut with a screwed rod.
New stain and poly testing
As I mentioned in my previous post I bought some new stain so I tried it out last night. I bought a couple of little cans of polyurethane when I...