Before getting to the OSB, I fastened the XPS panels to prevent them from shifting. I secured each of the 2 x 8 XPS panels with two (2) Tapcons into the underlying concrete floor. Thats not enough for permanent attachment, but since Id be attaching the OSB through the XPS, it only needed to be attached enough to hold still while I installed it. I started every other row of XPS with a half sheet so that though there were many joints where three (3) panels met, there were no four (4) panel joints.

The corded PC impact driver burnt out after
driving about 2 dozen Tapcons.

After the XPS, I installed the 3/4" tongue and groove OSB. I used a half sheet of OSB on every other row also to achieve the same 3 panel joints. Each sheet of OSB was fastened through the XPS into the concrete with 18 tapcons in a 4-3-4-3-4 patten, installed along the factory markings which are painted on the OSB to help identify where the framing is for typical installations. This left me with a floor fastened every 1.7’ on center. It shouldn’t be going anywhere.

Its beginning to look like a floor.

With the XPS installed to 7-1/2” from the garage door and the OSB installed to 12” from the edge of the XPS I called it a day on installing the floor. I has hoped to also make the threshold which will fit in the 7-1/2” space, but I realized too late that my planer was stuck in my living room, surrounded by the other workshop paraphernalia.

The next morning, after I picked up my new jointer, I began the long task of loading all of the tools into the shop by myself. By the time my wife got home in the early afternoon, the only thing left in the living room was my work bench.

Reloaded with the contents of my shop.

Though I still need to build the threshold and tie it into the OSB I’ve spent the few weeks since the floor was installed coloring the walls and setting the shop back up. In that time, I’ve already come to appreciate how nice working on the new floor is. When I step from the concrete at the door to the OSB I can immediately feel how firm and soft the new floor is.

Though I’m far from finished, it’s absolutely delightful to be able to reach a

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This second Ghetto WorkCenter video shows the completed WorkCenter. After making the saw tray and boom arm I kept going and moved on to make a tool holder. As I documented in my last post, I made the Tool Holder by coping the V design of the Festool Tool Holders. I made mine of wood and it mounts on the Ghetto WorkCenter. Now I can hang two tools on the WorkCenter while keeping the saw off the ground and the hose out of the choice.

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March proved a productive month in the shop. The April Shop Tour finally shows some progress.

Since the March tour, Ive managed to get back to working on the shop and youll see that the back wall is finally finished.

Since the April tour video was filmed, Ive actually finished that last piece in the corner. The May tour may even include some electric work.

After 2 tries, it finally fit!

Did you get much done in your shop in March?

It’s not quite that time of year again, but Marc’s pre-planning (a good thing with the coming little Spagnolo) his 2012 winter Guild Build already.This year he’s planning to help with your physical as well as educational woodworking fundamentals. That’s right . . .  we’re building a bench!

The Worlds Greatest Workbench.

I was working on a bench myself when I stopped to participate in this year’s Winter Guild Build: The Wall Hanging Cabinet.

Workbenchs have been a favorite topic of mine since first hearing Dave Noftz discuss them on his (sorely missed) Modern Woodshop. As Im sure is true for many of you also, its high time I got off my butt and built a proper bench. The support, encouragement and friendly rivalry of the guild is just what I need to get back to the bench. You should too.

My Timberstrand Bench Slab Experiment.

If youre bench obsessed like I am, heres a partial list of links worth checking out:Schwartz’s Rules for WorkbenchesMy cross postsChris cross postsMarc’s build or buy postKari’s joinery benchShannon’s joinery benchMorton’s Sourcing the LumberMy bench build postsHeres a blatant re-post of the video I took of Chris Schwarz discussing his Petite Roubo:

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A few weeks ago, I wrote of how cool some Benchtop Benches are. After contemplating buying the Sjoberg Smart Vise for him, I instead opted to build a Jeff Miller style Benchtop Bench for my Dad for Fathers day.

Jeff Millers Benchtop Bench from FineWoodworking.com

As might be expected of me, I began by milling the legs out of Timerstrand. One of the nice things about Timberstrand is that they come almost perfectly flat. They’re also easy to mill. A few passes over the jointer and through the planer left them ready for joinery.

Timberstrand mills just fine.

Rather than use the traditional tenons that Miller used on his original, I used Dominos (no suprise to a regular reader. I glued the tops and bottoms to the legs. It was my intention to bolt the front and back stretchers as Miller did, using unglued Dominos rather than his staunch tenons. I say it was intention, because as with many good intentions, this fell to the choiceside once I had the Domino and glue in hand. The stretchers are not permanently glued to the legs.

Miller centered his stretchers on his legs, resulting in their being set back slightly from the face of the legs. As it was easier, I simply jointed my stretchers flush with the face of the legs.

The leg assemblies.

I glued the leg assembly in two (2) steps. First I glued the top and bottoms to the legs. Then I glued the leg assemblies to the stretchers. As soon as they were glued up, I put the whole thing on my table saw as a flat reference surface. There was some twist to bench base, so while the glue was still wet I added an extra clamp diagonally across them to try to pull the twist out.

The stretchers glues in and the diagonal clamp to minimize racking.

Once the leg assembly was in clamps, I began on the top and vise.

The top is made of the finger jointed mystery wood panels you can get from the home centers. I laminated four of the panels together (3/4” each to make a 3” slab) about a year ago as an experimental benchtop. The whole thing was about 6’ long and had an awful twist to it.

To make the benchtop bench top, I cut a 24” length off the end of the home center panel experiment. With a few passes through the planer, this smaller length flattened out quickly and ended up just under 3” thick.

The benchtop on the legs.

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My new shop floor is soft and cozy warm.

Where We Started On Friday Night.

There are many components to a great shop. One that I dont think gets quite enough credit - and one that Ive ignored until now - is the floor. Like many woodworkers with a garage shop, for years Ive simply used the original concrete as my floor. It was there and machines on wheels were able to roll on it - it worked.

As Ive finished up the odyssey that was my shop walls over the last few months Ive thought about the floor. After the work of the walls, the floor would be quick and simple - provided I could get all my crap off of it. When I realized that my kids would be achoice with my Dad and my Wife achoice with her sister on the same weekend I knew I had a chance to install the floor that I had to take advantage of.

On Friday of the big weekend, once everyone was on their choice I began by moving all of the living room furniture into the dining room. Then I laid out drop cloths and began moving my shop into the living room. I brought my Cousin over and together we emptied everything out of the shop except the table saw, band saw and jointer. Then I paid him with dinner.

I dragged myself up on Saturday and got to work. Unlike many published designs for installing shop floors over masonry floors, I built mine without sleepers. To get achoice without the support sleepers provide, I used 60 psi extruded polystyrene (XPS) rather than the standard 20 psi. Between the high psi XPS and the diffusion the 3/4" OSB would provide to point loading of weight, I decided no sleepers would be needed. I didnt do any structural calculations, but so far the lack of sleepers hasnt been a problem.

The gap between the wall and the XPS is filled with Great Stuff

After vacuuming the floor, the first step was to lay down the XPS. I measured a relatively straight line about 1/2" off the curb at bottom of the exterior wall of my shop. I used that line to set the XPS. I filled the gap between the curb and the XPS with Great Stuff. I used Window & Door great stuff with my Pro-Gun, as I have for the entire shop renovation. The gun gives application control unachievable with the standard can and straw. The Window and Door Great Stuff is better than standard Great Stuff because it stays softer and expands less than standard Great Stuff, making installation easier.

Air sealing as I go.

The XPS I used has a rabbit around the edge. I installed it upside down so that when the sheets were laid against each other, the rabbits created a channel which I filled with M-1 caulking. This allowed me to air seal between the boards of insulation.

With the XPS down, it was time for OSB.

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2013 is over. With it, my year of monthly shop tours has come to and end. Here, I present to you the final tour of the year: December.

Some of you may have noticed that this only makes 11 tours for the year. Im sorry. I dont know what happened to September.
I have enjoyed these regular tours quite a bit. Ive found that they have kept me motivated and pushed me to make (and finish) many more shop projects this year than in years past. Im going to keep them a regular feature through the coming years as the shop continues to evolve.Im not the only one to finish the year with a tour. Here is +David Harms (justsquareenough.com) December 2013 tour. Hes made quite a bit of progress this year too.

Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.

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Once the first two (2) bolts were in and I’d cleaned up from the first day of the tree house build, I walked the site and thought about how I would lay out the platform. As part of this process, I measured between the trees and discovered that the clearances between trees were 9’11” (too big for my intended 10’ beam) 12’6” (too big for my intended 12’ beam) and 15’7” (too big for my 16’ beam). Ungh.Initially, I thought I’d just get two 2”x8”x18’ boards and make an 18’ beam. If I did that and discarded the 10’ one I’d already made, I could shift the other two down in location and still end up with the triangle shaped platform I had in my head.

In the morning, before going out to get the 18’ boards and walked the site again, with a slightly clearer head. While an 18’ beam would allow me to make the triangle shaped platform I’d intended, as I stood there between the trees I realized that the triangle was going to be too small. If I added a post to act as a fourth tree, I could turn the triangle into a rectangle and just about double the size of the tree house platform.With this new plan, I headed to the store and picked up two (2) 2”x8”x16’ board to make a second beam for the long side and two (2) 2”x8”x10’ boards to make a second beam for the short end. I also picked up a 4”x4”x12’ post for the fourth “tree.”

Additional beams during glueup.

As soon as I got home I again glued up the joists. Then I set to work marking out and digging for the post. To my astonishment and delight, I managed to dig the 3’5” hole for the post without hitting any roots, rocks or other impediments.

The easiest hole Ive ever dug.

I tossed a few inches of gravel in the bottom of the hole to help with drainage and tossed in the post. After temporarily bracing the post level, I slowly filled the hole with dry cement. Every few inches I would tamp it down with a broom handle (on which I’d cut a flat end instead of the original rounded end) and added a bit of water with a watering can. Years ago I read somewhere that when setting posts you didn’t need to actually mix the cement, but could get achoice just watering it in place. I’ve used this method a few times now, and it seems to work fine.

The four trees for the Tree House.

With the post in place, I again thought about the beam layout and how I would frame and deck the platform. I realized that since the double 16’ beams would extend past the trees and pick up the weight of all of the joists, the double 12” beams at the end wouldn’t add anything but weight. At least I’ll be able to use two (2) of the five (5) beams I’ve made.Other Tree House posts.

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Heres a quick video updating everyone on the recent (small) progress made on the continuing phase 1 of the shop renovation. Ive finally finished the window and electrical frames for the interior layer of insulation and now Im beginning to insulate around them.
You can see all of the 2013 Shop Tour Videos here.

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I cleaned and rearranged the shop today. Now that the wands are finally (almost) done, I needed to clean and rearrange things so that I could walk, use the table saw and find my bench.

Most of the rearrangement involved the hanging of the Bastard Tool Cabinet on the wall and moving my Festool sanders off the floor and onto the wall next to the Bastard.

There are a few corrections to what I say in the video:

1. I think the Port-A-Mate rack was more. I bought is a while ago.
2. What I say is cherry on the lumber rack looks like, and is, walnut.
3. I say “That’s about it” three (3) times. Only one (1) of those times is at the end.

How’s your shop organization? Time for a cleaning?

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This months shop tour is a bit late, but thats because I got so much done before the since the last tour (and started August with a vacation.
Here we go.

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There are two important benefits to accommodate a good number of tools in the carpenters bench: they are alchoices on hand and, adding a consistent weight to the entire structure, greatly enhance stability. On my bench I obtained the most space possible: in addition to the classic dresser, I used the open compartment under the top to accommodate the wooden planes I use more frequently. In the shorter side where the vice is not present there is another space, built in the thickness of the legs and when I fixed some instruments for measuring and tracking.

Of course, the planes are king, occupying most of the available space. The two large drawers on the left side are occupied by combination planes. One of the drawers on the right side is devoted to tools for drilling, brace, hand drill, gimlet, tips etc..

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The Blogs A Hungry Beast

The blog is a hungry beast, devouring two posts every week. Alas, Im running a bit behind this year. Ive installed a bathroom fan and gotten bit by a stomach bug. Neither is woodworking, but both more time consuming that Id imagined.

Careful marking for the weight holes.

Tonight I did finally get some basic woodworking in. It really only consisted of drilling, but it was with my boys, so it was still quite worth it. With everyone finally feeling better, we got to work on our Pinewood Derby cars. The race is this Saturday, so were cutting it close.
I do have a few good posts in my head and will get back to proper woodworking in the next post or so.
For some proper woodworking right achoice, check out my buddy, Tom. Hes been busy in the shop and alchoices seems to find the time to write about it.

Night, night, Tom.

Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.

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Dads Benchtop Bench Part III

With the vise nuts installed and the bench milled to accept the vise, it was time to work on the outer jaw.

The benchtop, ready for the vise.

Miller’s original features a 45° bevel on the top, outside face of the outer vise jaw. I’ve seen the bevel before on many Moxon Vises. It provides clearance to hold a saw and chisel at an angle. To cut my bevel, I eyed about how big I thought it should be, set my table saw to 45° and cut achoice.

Unfortunately, Once I put the vise jaw in place, I quickly realized that the big bevel I’d cut did not leave enough flat surface on the top for a bench dog hole. Rather than have the awkward hole which would have resulted, I flipped the front vise jaw around, and cut a much smaller bevel on the new top edge. This left the big bevel on the bottom, which I’ve grown to like the look of.

If Id left the big bevel on the top, I wouldnt have been able to drill (route) for dog.

To attach the vise I took the back jaw of the vise and set it upside down on my table saw. I also set the bench top upside down on my table saw. I used the saw as a reference surface to ensure that they were aligned, and then I clamped them together with parallel clamps. To fasten them, I simply used screws. I pre-drilled the holes and staggered the pattern to prevent splitting.

Fastening the rear vise jaw.

I installed the legs in a similar manner. I held them in place with parallel clamps and then screwed them to the top. Since the legs were slightly out of square, I was sure they were clamped extra tight to the top before I screwed them on.

Once I took the clamps off and flipped the bench over, I found that that screwing the legs to the perfectly flat 3” thick top was all it took to pull them into alignment. The feet sit perfectly flat on my tablesaw.

All that was left was to assembly the vise.Read More..

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Assembling the legs to the top.