Before getting to the OSB, I fastened the XPS panels to prevent them from shifting. I secured each of the 2 x 8 XPS panels with two (2) Tapcons into the underlying concrete floor. Thats not enough for permanent attachment, but since Id be attaching the OSB through the XPS, it only needed to be attached enough to hold still while I installed it. I started every other row of XPS with a half sheet so that though there were many joints where three (3) panels met, there were no four (4) panel joints.

The corded PC impact driver burnt out after
driving about 2 dozen Tapcons.

After the XPS, I installed the 3/4" tongue and groove OSB. I used a half sheet of OSB on every other row also to achieve the same 3 panel joints. Each sheet of OSB was fastened through the XPS into the concrete with 18 tapcons in a 4-3-4-3-4 patten, installed along the factory markings which are painted on the OSB to help identify where the framing is for typical installations. This left me with a floor fastened every 1.7’ on center. It shouldn’t be going anywhere.

Its beginning to look like a floor.

With the XPS installed to 7-1/2” from the garage door and the OSB installed to 12” from the edge of the XPS I called it a day on installing the floor. I has hoped to also make the threshold which will fit in the 7-1/2” space, but I realized too late that my planer was stuck in my living room, surrounded by the other workshop paraphernalia.

The next morning, after I picked up my new jointer, I began the long task of loading all of the tools into the shop by myself. By the time my wife got home in the early afternoon, the only thing left in the living room was my work bench.

Reloaded with the contents of my shop.

Though I still need to build the threshold and tie it into the OSB I’ve spent the few weeks since the floor was installed coloring the walls and setting the shop back up. In that time, I’ve already come to appreciate how nice working on the new floor is. When I step from the concrete at the door to the OSB I can immediately feel how firm and soft the new floor is.

Though I’m far from finished, it’s absolutely delightful to be able to reach a

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This project began many months ago when my wife, a crafter, pinned this glue gun rack to one of her Pinterest boards. When I saw it I figured it would be easy to make and improve upon, so I re-pinned it to my Neat Things Carolyn Would Like Me To Build board.

The pin that started it the odyssey.

Fast forward a few weeks from my initially seeing it and after a particularly rough day at work I declared that I would need some time alone to unwind and headed to the shop. That’s when I set to building my version of the glue gun rack.

I decided that the the glue gun rack I built would be an experiment in sculpted design. Specifically, I wanted to juxtapose a rigid, rectilinear design on two (2) edges, while  creating a flowing, sculpted surface on the other two (2).

Starting on the rack.

I made the glue gun rack from some scraps of Walnut and Ebony I had on hand. As with any process, it began by milling the lumber flat and square. Then I did my basic layout.

Figuring out where things will go.

First, I glued the Ebony to a piece of Walnut to make a large billet. Then I used my Domino to make the mortises in all the pieces.

Dominos anyone?

With the joinery done, I marked out the basic shapes on each piece, and rough cut them on my band saw.

Rough shaping prior to assembly.

The final step before glue up was to recesses out for the glass tile the tip of the glue gun rests on. To do this, I used my small DeWalt trim router with an 1/8” spiral upcut bit and the plunge base. I routed freehand to within about 1/8” of the line and then cleaned up the edge with my chisels.Next time, well glue up and begin shaping.Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.

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